Using the Ceramic Pinhole Camera
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4 plastic trays (at least 1" deep or a little deeper and at least 8" wide or more depending on how big the prints that you plan developing. (with a lid is GREAT for easy storage))
5 x 7 RC photographic paper (pearl or matte finish is best but really any photographic paper will be just fine to use.)
developer (I use ilford concentrated liquid)
fixer (I use ilford concentrated liquid)
stop bath *optional*
plastic tongs
red safe light (a special one from photography store recommend)
white light (15 or 20 watt bulb)
2 lamps (preferably small)
old towels
sheet of plate glass large enough to cover 5 x 7 paper

Taking a Picture

Place a piece of photographic paper inside the ceramic camera (cut or torn to appropriate size for the camera) Remember to do this IN THE DARK or using a red safe light.

Go outside, find a place to set up the ceramic camera. Depending on how BRIGHT it is this will determine how long to expose the photographic paper. A sunny day is about 40 seconds.

Remove the shutter cap for appropriate amount of time. Replace the shutter cap. Then its time to take the photographic paper out (remember do this in the dark or using a red safe light)

Developing a Negative

Spread out an old towel, set up your trays with chemicals or water in this order.
- Dev - SB/Water - Fix - Water -

I recommend all of these including the water to be at least room temperature.
Turn OFF the lights and only use your RED SAFE LIGHT.
Place an exposed photographic paper into the developer. (I usually count and see how long it takes until my image starts to show up) Usually about a minute depending on how strong you have made the developer and how old the developer is. Agitate the developer a little by tipping the tray up a little bit to make the chemicals move over your photo.

Next use your tongs and take the paper out of the developer and place it into the next tray which is the water - agitate for about 10 seconds.

Use the tongs again to take the paper and move it into the fixer. Agitate the tray for about 3 minutes (again depending on how strong the fixer is). After the paper is fully submerged into the fixer about 30 seconds you can turn on the overhead light. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE ANY OTHER PHOTOS IN YOUR DEVELOPER OR STOP BATH when you turn on the light or they will be exposed!

Get those tongs again and move the photographic paper into the next tray of water. Agitate this water for about 2 minutes. Then remove and rinse under cool running water (not cold) rinse for about 2 more minutes.

Hang or stand the photo up to dry on a towel. OR if you have a squeegee you can squeegee the water off and then place inside a special drying book.

Making a Print

After your negative is dry it is time to make a print or a positive.

Turn off all lights and use the red light. Take a piece of photographic paper emulsion side up (this is the side that is more shiny or if you have a damp finger it feels a bit more tacky than the other side). Then put your negative with the image facing down on your piece of photographic paper. Next put the piece of glass on top of them.

Use the white light held up about 3 feet above the image. Turn it on and expose it for 20 seconds. Turn this white light off & develop the print the same way as developing a negative.

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